A Woman’s Take on Menswear

Masculinity has always seemed like a limiting term to me, a label to inform us as to where we should and shouldn’t tread. I would like to suggest that the fear of not conforming to traditional ‘rules’ of masculinity has caused a cyclical lack of male interest in fashion. 

Historically, fashion was conflated with femininity, so men’s interest in fashion was seen as extremely taboo as being involved in ‘feminine’ interests was seen to diminish masculinity. Therefore, men are deterred from creating a ‘spectacle’ with fashion, associating extravagance and excess with the feminine. This pigeonholes the male image and forces conformity for fear of being an outcast.  

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The immobility of women’s image, in contrast, is a result of the fashion industry’s manipulative trend-cycling to impose a need for change and constructing a deep-rooted feeling of ‘lack’ for women – a lack that can be repaired by a product the industry profits from. This is why women dominate the image of the fashion industry, as they are its target market. This perhaps adds to the inherent disinterest many men have in fashion as they don’t see themselves represented. This is ironic as men are the spearheads of many fashion companies, with the majority of high-end designers being men... But this is beside the point. 

Conformity is also heavily prevalent in menswear because of a desire to align with a safe, pre-approved framework of masculinity. A lot of menswear staples like a shirt and a t-shirt stemmed from soldier’s uniforms – the army is a place where men are explicitly encouraged to consider themselves as duplicates, not differing from their comrades. Marching formations in which they move in unison, wholly as one, further this image of rigidity and not differing from the status quo and being praised for it.

Corporate wear derives from this and is a modern example of uniform, donning suits that reflect wealth and status the more expensive they are. Perhaps psychologically, clothing represents status to men in a way it doesn’t to women – uniform means power. Power being opposite to femininity is also no surprise.  

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I surveyed a few male students from St Andrews, and the consensus is that they came to university without much interest in fashion and have branched out a lot more since. Universities have always been a place of forward-minded, revolutionary people— St Andrews is no exception. This university in particular attracts a lot of arts students, from all over the world, bringing with them different styles and attitudes towards fashion and image. 

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There is still an adherence to more simplistic styles that shy away from extravagance, but, as has been seen within our generation as a whole, the tide is changing. Students are going against the grain, with men dressed in some impeccable street style, full of colour, pattern , and innovation. However, even the more rebellious, supposedly non-conformist styles like to lean toward subtle displays of attention to detail in comparison with women’s fashion. Vintage style is also in, begging another question: are students adopting past styles as a way of conforming to traditional elite aesthetics? 

Overall, there does seem to be a restriction in societal allowances for men’s fashion, for fear of being too associated with the feminine. However, this is changing, and it's happening right before our eyes.