From Victoria’s Secret to FS: A Push for Body Inclusivity

While the fashion industry centres around clothing, the conversation has also been centered around the bodies those clothes go on. What are the politics around who gets to wear what, and which body ideals, realistic or not, are brands marketing?  

This conversation has been at the forefront since the recent revamp of the Victoria’s Secret (VS) fashion show on October 15. The show saw both old and new faces, sparking controversy among its diehard fans as to whether this new wave of inclusivity should be embraced. 

Credit: St Andrews Charity Fashion Show.

Founded in 1977, The lingerie titan, named in reference to Queen Victoria, played a pivotal role in making purchasing lingerie a much less secretive activity. Even today, lingerie has wiggled into everyday wear that is popular among young women. Layering with bralettes that peek through or wearing a lacy tank top on a night out is trendy and widespread. 

The first VS Fashion Show was held in 1995 at the Plaza Hotel in New York City which initially struggled to find models due to the stigmatization of lingerie at the time. But, ultimately, the show was a success and introduced lingerie as fashion in a way that had never been done before. When the “Angel” collection was released, the label of ‘VS Angels’ to the models that participated in the show and adorned wings, became a trademark for the brand. 

However, overtime the show ultimately lost popularity, resulting in its cancellation. Much of this was due to backlash against the unrealistic body image that was being sold and the repercussions that those images had on women’s mental health who viewed the show. The job of the angels was to keep it light and never to discuss anything negative regarding mental health. 

A turning point occurred when the chief marketing officer for the brand, Ed Razek, said explicitly in an interview that including trans and plus-size women in the show would disrupt the fantasy that the brand was trying to sell its audiences. However, that led the consumer to question why being thin, white and cisgender should be the fantasy, especially when that ‘fantasy’ is unrealistic for most people.

Credit: St Andrews Charity Fashion Show.

Cut to 2024. Not only has the show made its return, but it has now included plus size models, trans models, and models of all ages, yet still received largely mixed reviews. Some were angry with the new wave of inclusivity, calling for the return of the VS 'fantasy’ that was once promoted. Others claimed that the inclusivity felt surface level and called for more diversity. Some only complained about the production of the show, which seemed embarrassingly low budget. 

This conversation is not unique to Victoria’s Secret and can lead to a larger conversation about what kinds of bodies are showcased, especially in a town like St. Andrews where we love a good fashion show. 

The logistic director of FS, Imogen Blain, has some opinions about the VS fashion show and body inclusivity in general. 

She highlights the idea of representation in the VS show because “their bodies have become the statement on the stage.” While she thought that the production may have lacked some sparkle due to the low production level previously mentioned, she likes the direction they’re taking with being more inclusive.

“I believe the view that runways should only be exclusive to small classical model bodies is outdated and people are asking for more,” she wrote. “It’s empowering for so many people, and I think it adds to the beauty of the show overall.” 

This year’s theme for the FS show is ‘skin,’ and directors want to promote being comfortable in one’s body and clothes as a ‘second skin.’ 

In order to achieve this, during model casting the directors kept their eyes out for those who showcased confidence, with inclusivity and diversity at the forefront. They knew that in order to truly embody the beauty of ‘skin,’ representation was an imperative aspect of the casting process.

“We went into this process with a genuine desire to showcase the different kinds of beauty associated with skin, and its flaws, and to take a stance against sexualization of our bodies,” she wrote, and continued to highlight the importance of racial diversity to the show . 

Lastly, Blain believes this should not be unique to FS and commented, “I really believe it’s necessary for all the fashion shows in this town to account for inclusion in their processes.” 

Inclusivity is more important than ever with the rise of social media, as many young people are constantly comparing themselves to what they see online. Seeing someone that looks like you in a show as high level as the VS fashion show, or at shows here in St. Andrews which are representing the student body, can truly make a difference.

Credit: St Andrews Charity Fashion Show.

While the future of inclusivity in fashion shows is uncertain, one thing remains clear, the push for diverse body representation is alive and well, and hopefully the fashion industry, within or outside of St. Andrews, will reflect that.