The Many Rules of Menswear: How to Spice Up Your Black-Tie Looks

Whether you’re a returning student, or just settling into life in St Andrews, there will no doubt be a ball marked on your calendar that you are excited to attend. Balls often come with a black-tie dress code, and at a university that is known for its students' style and fashion shows, you want to make sure you hit the mark.

Credit: @darkesdiary Instagram

Nowadays, Black tie is commonly understood as or just called ‘formal’. However, it is actually only one of many ‘formal’ dress codes including morning dress and White tie. Similar to Black tie, White tie is an evening dress code which, being the most formal, is reserved for extremely fancy occasions such as state dinners. It also has much stricter rules, calling for a white bow tie and white waistcoat with a tailcoat. Morning dress, while formal, is also a dress code where the rules can be bent, with the addition of colourful waistcoats and ties as well as accessories such as top hats, tie pins and pocket watches. The most common example of where you can find morning dress being worn is at the Royal Ascot.

Black Tie is an evening dress code that the menswear commentator Derek Guy (die_workwear) reminds us ‘are actually party suits, things you wear when you want to celebrate something. Which is why you see black tie at award ceremonies or New Year’s Eve parties. They are festive garments meant to show cheer and joy.’ So, while there are some rules to wearing Black tie well, don’t be afraid to break them and have a little fun! 

The Tie

Black tie does not mean a long black necktie, so when wearing Black tie, you should always wear a bow tie.

Credit: E! News

This very avoidable fashion faux pas is seen far too often on the red carpet by celebs with stylists who should know better. Tom Cruise is guilty of this, and who knows why, because there are plenty of examples of him looking sharp in a bow tie!

Pre-tied bow ties are a popular option, and while they are easy to clip on and off, tying them yourself is not too difficult. There are lots of video tutorials online on how to do this, which is much easier than asking your friend to teach you when you’re both a little tipsy on the way to the ball in question. If they don’t look perfect, it just adds extra sprezzatura! It also means that you don’t have to carry a do-it-yourself bow-tie to slip on when you remove your clip-on, to embody the suave style of James Bond (who, let’s be honest, is who we are all trying to emulate when dressing in Black tie).

The Suit

Credit: @theanthology Instagram

Traditionally, black-tie suits, or tuxedoes,

are black or midnight blue with satin lapels and matching piping down the side of the trouser leg. The jacket can be single or double breasted but should have a peak of shawl lapel. The formal rules dictate that a single-breasted jacket should be worn with a cummerbund or waistcoat in a satin that matches the lapels to keep your middle covered. These are great for making you look taller by extending the line of your legs, as well as helping to keep your shirt tucked in.

As we are in Scotland it is also important to mention highland dress. Kilts and trews are both appropriate to wear to a black-tie event and can help you stand out from the crowd.

Credit: Gentleman's Gazette

A kilt should be worn with a Prince Charlie jacket and waistcoat, while trews can be worn with a regular tuxedo jacket or Prince Charlie. When wearing a waistcoat, make sure that it is long enough and that your trousers have a high enough rise to meet it. If not, you will end up with your shirt spilling out everywhere and most definitely not look like Bond.

The Shirt

Black-tie or formal shirts tend to have covered buttons, or studs, and double cuffs. They can also have turn down or wing tip collars. Personally, I prefer a turn down collar as I think wing tips can look a bit cluttered. They are also a bit of an Americanism so take that as you will…

The Shoes

Black-tie shoes should be patent leather oxfords (the REALLY shiny ones). However, black oxfords and derbies are often also worn. Also, a quick word about socks… If you take nothing else from these rules- just buy a pair of black dress socks, there is nothing worse than seeing someone looking sharp, only for them to sit down and expose their short Nike sports socks!

Breaking the Rules

While these rules can seem quite restrictive, once you know them, you can break them. Mixing up the fabric of your suit, to something like corduroy or velvet can be a fun way to express your personal style or ‘dress down’ the formal dress code.

Credit: @scotfrasersimspon Instagram

Shirts are also not limited to the colour white, with some very stylish men branching out into denim shirts in black tie looks. You can also branch out in your choice of footwear, with the many forms of loafers available, or, if you’re more daring, an opera pump! Accessories such as pocket squares, suspenders, patterned bow ties and waistcoats can all come together to create a black-tie look that is unique to you, while simultaneously meeting those often sartorially challenging ball themes…

When it comes to Black tie, sometimes less is more, but when it comes to Christmas Ball’s ‘Alice and Wonderland’ theme this year, more might just be what you’re looking for. I for one am looking forward to giving my take on how the mad hatter would wear his tuxedo. Speaking of, does anyone know where I can get a top hat?

Credit: @jfk_man Instagram