Funnel-Vision: Wrapping up in St Andrews this Autumn
Autumn is in full swing at St Andrews, and with it comes an all-too-familiar nip in the air. As cardigans are traded for trench coats, scarves are pulled a little tighter around necks, dressing for the unpredictability of Scottish weather becomes a practical choice as much as it is a stylish one. This autumn, however, there is one standout silhouette offering a particularly chic solution to the breeze - the funnel-neck. While we all know the well-loved and well-worn turtleneck jumper, the funnel-neck jacket puts a refreshing spin on the classic silhouette, bringing a more structured and sculpted edge to the style.
Its recent surge in popularity, however, is about more than simply staying warm. Its growing presence across runways, high streets, and student wardrobes speaks to the influence of one designer in particular, Phoebe Philo. Enter: the Philo Effect.
Following an undeniably successful career as creative director at Celine and Chloé, Phoebe Philo debuted her own eponymous label in autumn of 2023. Her return to the fashion scene was met with considerable anticipation, and with it came the carefully considered high-neck proportions and strong silhouettes that have deservedly become a trademark of her designs. Like clockwork, the funnel-neck was spotted on numerous celebrities and soon after was stocked in seemingly every high street shop. Such a phenomenon has now been coined as the ‘Philo Effect.’ As Vogue’s Joy Montgomery notes, this is “when certain, unmistakably Philo-esque silhouettes and motifs” would appear elsewhere during runways before inevitably materialising in commercial retailers for the general public to wear. Nothing proves the Philo Effect quite like the (re)surgence of funnel-neck outwear. No sooner had Phoebe debuted her take on the structured neck silhouette than other designers began playing with their own variations on the runway.
Across recent collections, the funnel neck has taken on many different forms. From exaggerated, strong and sculptural necklines to more relaxed and loose-fit silhouettes, its versatility is a testament to its deserved popularity in recent times. And the high street has followed suit. Retailers like M&S, COS, and Nobody’s Child have all offered their own spin on the staple to make it accessible beyond high fashion runways and expensive price tags. From wool to leather and button-ups to zip-ups, there is a style for everyone.
So, perhaps it was only a matter of time before the trend made its way to the corners of St Andrews. Though sported by students in less bold and dramatic forms than seen in recent fashion weeks, their presence is nonetheless hard to miss. Instead of oversized proportions, statement styling, and bold colours, the St Andrews take on the trend lends itself to a more understated look. For example, a dark funnel-neck jacket over a pair of simple jeans and leather boots. And when the weather can change as fast as you can walk from North to South Street, outerwear has to work especially hard, but the funnel-neck seems to offer a perfectly suited solution. It isn’t reliant on elaborate accessorising and styling; instead, its charm is inherent to the silhouette itself. Thrown on during a morning rush, it holds its own - perhaps the ultimate proof that the most wearable trends are the ones that require the least work.
As autumn deepens and we await the (dreaded) turning back of the clocks, the funnel-neck has surely secured space in our Winter wardrobes. Not thanks only to the Philo Effect, but in its enduring ability to make getting dressed for the cold feel that little bit more considered.
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